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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.